In a nut shell, or anywhere else,
gravity Sucks. At Mac1 we make our own guns and one of the goals is to make
sure the consumer can get on target with the scope he is using when he uses
straight rings as manufactured. When we cut our rails or make our Picitinny
bases the droop is incorporated into the rail so mounts can be used that are
parallel to the rail top. The rail bottom has about 25 minutes of angle built
in so the scope winds up looking where the gun hits with turrets centered. To
insure the customers who buy the guns we don’t make cope with this misalignment
they have a choice of bending the barrel up to eliminate the barrel droop so
the scope won't run out of vertical adjustment or fitting rings that have been
cut to compensate for the misalignment. I have found no adverse effects from bent
barrels as they can still be accurate.
Your choice is to bend your barrel
up or buy a Mac1 Drooper mount. If you
fit most of the adjustable mounts it will be changing zero until you throw it
away. The exception is the Beeman adjustable and it is strong but rather high.
On a magnum springer you need to get serious about strong mounts. We can
machine the mount by the amount of droop you need. Usually 20 minutes of
adjustment is enough to get you zeroed but we can put another 10 minutes in for
good measure so you're using the middle of the scopes adjustment at 10 and 50
yards on the typical springer.
Magnum Springers kick. More power is
more kick in most cases. (Need super strong Mounts).
They are long range guns that can hunt to 75 yards. (Need high Mag scopes with
They generally shoot in bigger (slower) calibers. (Trajectory is more extreme)
The High mag big objective scopes are heavy, they rarely have much
Adjustability and have to use high rings to clear receiver. (Thus we need
Strong High rings with Droop Compensation) Barrel to receiver alignments are
generally in droop or straight at best. Even if the barrel was inline with the
receiver the minutes required to use the above gun at 60 yards would be about
30 minutes with average weight .22 Cal. going 800FPS. In fact pretty much
everything needs 30 minutes to use the scope mid adjustment as the manufacturer
30 minutes~30" @ 100yds~15"
@ 50yds~10" @ 33yds~7.5" @ 25yds~3" @ 10yds~1.5 "@ 5yds.
This is how low most (85%) airguns shoot at 10 yards (2.5-3”) if the optics are
centered with straight mounts. It is also the approximate point of impact
adjustment at 50yards from the average medium mount height 800 fps gun. Some
guns need more droop but 85% of what we see needs 30 minutes. The lower scope
needs less. The barrel drooping gun needs more. We cut rings at 20, 30 40 and
50 minutes of droop. We try to stock a selection of mounts so we can supply
from stock 90% of the time. We started Cutting Picitinny Mounts with Droop recently
as well as the Airgun/Rimfire type rings which we have done for decades. We
have both 1” and 30 MM split rings and one piece mounts in 1” & 30MM as
well as Picitinny 1” and 30MM with Droop. We use Leapers or Accushot mounts for
our Droop inventory and those are very robust rings.
What is a Drooper?
We basically line bore a new angle
to the scope rings so they look where the gun shoots. This is compensating for
gravity, scope height, and for the dreaded droopy barrel. To handle the needs
of Springers we always recommend 1-Piece mounts or at least a rod between split
rings so they share the clamping and stopping task.
Custom droop and/or custom windage
corrections are available for most 1" and 30mm rings. The mounts are recut
with a specific ring spread that you can deviate from slightly but you don't
want to tweak the scope tube so it is best to stay within 1/2 inch of machined
ring spread. We can do split rings with custom ring spread, windage and droop
adjusted for most applications. The standard is a 4" ring spread.
When mounting a scope on a PCP like
the Career you would think the gun doesn't need droop but you would be wrong.
Most need a scope that can be used at much farther distances than anything else
because it has the most hunting range we have seen. Any scope twisted to within
a couple of clicks of the adjustment max cannot work as effectively as it could
midpoint. When you have a gun that can hit a silver dollar at 100 yards why
squander its potential by using straight mounts. The problem has always been
determining how much droop you need. There are certain procedures you need to
go through with straight mounts to determine the spec.
How do I know how much Droop?
Mount the scope with straight rings.
No shims or adjustments. Center the scope adjustments (count clicks and divide
by two). Shoot it at 10 yards. Tell me how low or high & left or right the
gun hits compared to where you aimed. Do it twice to verify. Always include
this info with your order along with the type of gun (make and model) and the
type of scope (Brand/Mag/objective size). That info allows us to make mounts
perfect for your gun or select from stock a mount appropriate for your
application. This is a limited production thing I do because I see the need. It
is the way to do it as far as I'm concerned. Mounting scopes can be a real pain
to the novice and even the informed can get stumped. Experience has led me
here. It saves a lot of time, dollars, aggravation, and hassle to do it right
the first time.
Mac-1 can take any 1" or 30MM
tube scope mount you own and for a fee we can cut custom droop and windage for
you. In order to figure out exactly what your requirements are you want to
center the adjustments of the scope and shoot at the middle of an 8X11 sheet of
paper at 10 yards with a straight mount. We need to know how much
low/high/left/right it shoots and we can cut your mounts or a set we supply to
compensate for your scope to barrel misalignment. It is always a good idea to
make sure the barrel is straight and the gun is operating properly with a
proper breech seal etc. before modifying mounts for a specific gun.
The compensation for barrel droop
and trajectory needs is something that Mac-1 specializes in. We provide beefy mounts
so the mount problems are minimized. Always make sure there is no interference
between the scope/mounts/gun that will result in a stress to the scope. To
mount any of these Droopers
install the rings on the scope groove and make sure that the clamping feet are
as vertical as possible and they will tighten up when snagged. Leave them
loosely tightened. The feet of all these mounts can be flipped over to allow a
different range of dovetails each way. For non-stopped mounts on a recoiling
rifle it is a good idea to clean up the base and dovetails with alcohol and
then locktite (640 sleeve retainer) between the dovetail of the gun and the
base of the mount. Align the stophole(s) of the gun with the stop screw(s) of
the mount(s) and screw the stop screw(s) down into the stop hole but do not
tighten. Make sure the mount is not being held up by the stop screw. Pull the
mount(s) to the rear and tighten the base clamping screws firmly. Do not make
them squeak. Run the stop screw in to the bottom of the stop hole without over
tightening. If a problem with the scope slipping in the rings has been
experienced you can clean & apply 640 locktite between the scope tube and
clamping surface of the rings. Place the scope in the rings, align the
crosshairs to vertical/horizontal position, and set the scope for the most
comfortable eye relief. You may be able/need to change stop holes in the gun if
it has multiple holes to achieve acceptable eye relief. Tighten the screws of
the straps evenly to avoid the crosshairs twisting. Do not over tighten. If
they squeak you are going over the limit. Sight gun in. If you can't sight the
gun in put the scope in the middle of its range of adjustment and see where the
gun shoots @ 10 yards. This information will be needed to figure out what it
will take for your application if you aren't in the 85%.